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Serving VT, NH, Western MA and Upstate NY |
Basement Waterproofing | Basement Waterproofing |
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Are you dreading the next big rain storm?
If your basement is leaking or damp, the professionals at Advanced Basement Technologies can educate you on the causes of your problem and provide you with a comprehensive solution for your waterproofing needs. The most common leak that we see appears at the seam between the floor and the wall. With this leak, the majority of our customers will choose an interior drainage/pump system to prevent further leakage on the floor. When you are ready to end your wet basement nightmares forever, please contact Advanced Basement Technologies today so we can go over your options and fix your problem once and for all!
1. Interior Basement Drainage System Most people opt for an interior basement drainage system for a number of reasons that include the affordability to install one inside the basement than outside, the convenience of the job, the minimal time required for installation, no hassles on the availability of services and reliability. Some useful ways of drainage systems that you can consider are:
(a) Concrete walls: An interior drainage channel adhered at the base of the wall and the floor slab is ideal in situations where water tends to enter the basement. Installing the channel is a cost-effective approach, especially for concrete walls with cracks, and works by simply by collecting water into an airtight sump with the help of another channel that is placed on top of the slab. The water then flows through a trap to the sump basin. Although this method is effective for concrete walls, it is not very helpful in the case of masonry walls because water remains in the block cores at floor level and the water level is only lowered to the top of the slab. (b) Masonry walls: For masonry walls, installing a drainage channel at the base of the wall on top of the footing gets rid of moisture problems inside the basement because it drains the block cores completely. For this reason, holes are drilled at the base of every block core to permit drainage. The concrete along the slab edge should be removed and replaced for this approach. The drainage is connected to an airtight sump where water is collected. (c) Perforated drain pipes: A perforated drain pipe installed inside the perimeter of the footing by removing and replacing concrete at the slab edge allows free drainage of the wall into the drain pipe. A dimpled plastic sheeting is placed at the base of the wall and beneath the slab edge. The drainage is connected to an airtight sump where water is collected. This method gives better results when combined with an active soil gas management system that connects with the sump and perimeter drain pipe.
2. Exterior Basement Drainage System Exterior basement drainage systems have been found to be costlier than interior drainage systems since there is a lot of work, time and external causes such as weather conditions involved. On the other hand, they are essential for preventing exterior foundation damage. Although exterior drainage systems are expensive and time-consuming, people concerned about property and equity maintenance will have long-term benefits. A look at some exterior drainage system approaches:
(a) Grading: One would wonder as to what the soil has to do with a drainage system. Proper grading of the soil around the house would eliminate the entrance of water into the basement. Creating slopes would drive away water before it reaches the basement walls. In fact, this method would not even require a basement drainage. (b) Open drain: Open drains which are just shallow trenches that are lined with cement or plastic and held together with pebbles or gravel help in collecting water and discarding it before it reaches the basement. (c) French drain: A French drain is a trench that is covered with gravel or rock and basically redirects surface and ground water. This is useful for exterior drainage systems because the French drain that consists of a perforated pipe not only gets rid of water entering the basement, but draws water out of the soil before it soaks into the soil. The depth of the trench can range from 2-3 feet to 5-6 feet deep. However, lack of maintenance can lead to clogging of these trenches from sediments in the ground that will force water into the basement.
(d) Gutter downspouts: Gutter downspouts that are extended at least ten feet from the house and preferably connected to a rainwater collection system can work out as a reliable source for drainage. Disadvantages of Exterior Basement Drainage System: 1. Property line constraints - People may not own enough land surrounding their homes for an excavation trench and an area for a machine to operate. Moreover, digging or excavating by hand can be a tedious and expensive process. Excavation can also get difficult in different seasons like the spring if the area has a high water table and is impossible during winters. 2. Safety - Some problems occur on hillsides that will not allow safe excavation. This can lead to extensive damage in terms of landscaping. 3. Urban areas - Some areas are so densely built that outside measures are not practical. 4. Obstructions - Some homes have additions like paved carports, gardens, trees and fences that overhand the foundation drainage and thus make it impossible to excavate those areas rendering external methods inadequate. 5. Utilities - Some areas have underground utilities that make external excavation difficult or impossible.
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